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Thread: Tokyo 2021: Sponsored by it's not 2020 you slags

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    Senior Member Spikey M's Avatar
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    Tokyo 2021: Sponsored by it's not 2020 you slags

    https://www.bbc.co.uk/sport/olympics/56461152

    Perhaps the least surprising news for some time, but they've announced that there will be no foreign fans attending. Racists.

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    Senior Member SincereTheRebel's Avatar
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    The Nou Camp is filled with foreign Japanese fans and that club is doing just fine.

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    Bookie Sir Andy Mahowry's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spikey M View Post
    https://www.bbc.co.uk/sport/olympics/56461152

    Perhaps the least surprising news for some time, but they've announced that there will be no foreign fans attending. Racists.
    They're scared of TEAM GB doing another SUPER SATURDAY.

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    Isn't he banned? Baz's Avatar
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    I’m looking forward to watching people run fast, and following all the attractive athletes on Instagram.
    I'm a twit

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    Senior Member -james-'s Avatar
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    Rock climbing is in this year.

    The format is a bit of a farce. It's only been given one set of combined medals for 2020, meaning that all entrants have to compete in the three disciplines (bouldering, lead and speed), and the entrant with the lowest score across the three takes home the gold.

    Bouldering is short, technical climbing of about 5-10 moves; lead is long, endurance based climbing of about 50 moves; speed is done on a standardized wall and is objectively boring wank that nobody gives a fuck about. Bouldering and lead are related disciplines, and all who do one also do the other, and none of them would normally go near a speed wall. No speed climbers would ever normally compete in lead or bouldering competitions.

    What this means is that you'll have a handful of entrants who absolutely smash everyone else at speed, but will take up the last places in lead/boulder while potentially failing to complete more than a couple of moves and looking silly on a global stage. The combined winner will potentially be the lead/bouldering specialist who manages to be the least shit at speed. Most of the big names in the climbing world have had to start training speed, and will never train it again after this summer (speed is being given its own medal for 2024).

    Adam Ondra is the best all round climber in the world in terms of outdoor feats, but that doesn't necessarily translate to the often parkour-like style of indoor competition routes. Favourite is probably home athlete Tomoa Narasaki, who has been very impressive over the last couple of years and is also less shit at speed. Janja Garnbret will probably win the women's gold, but the UK has a very strong competitor in Shauna Coxsey who could well come away with a medal.

    Anyway, yeah, looking forward to it. Here are the combined finals from the 2019 World Championships if anyone wants a taste.

    Last edited by -james-; 20-03-2021 at 03:49 PM.

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    I used to be funny.
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    I look forward to the crowd being silent and respectful. It'll make the ex-pats easy to identify.

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    mischamischaracterisation Dquincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baz View Post
    I’m looking forward to watching people run fast, and following all the attractive athletes on Instagram.
    Are they all built like a brick shit house?

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    Senior Member hfswjyr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by -james- View Post
    Rock climbing is in this year.

    The format is a bit of a farce. It's only been given one set of combined medals for 2020, meaning that all entrants have to compete in the three disciplines (bouldering, lead and speed), and the entrant with the lowest score across the three takes home the gold.

    Bouldering is short, technical climbing of about 5-10 moves; lead is long, endurance based climbing of about 50 moves; speed is done on a standardized wall and is objectively boring wank that nobody gives a fuck about. Bouldering and lead are related disciplines, and all who do one also do the other, and none of them would normally go near a speed wall. No speed climbers would ever normally compete in lead or bouldering competitions.

    What this means is that you'll have a handful of entrants who absolutely smash everyone else at speed, but will take up the last places in lead/boulder while potentially failing to complete more than a couple of moves and looking silly on a global stage. The combined winner will potentially be the lead/bouldering specialist who manages to be the least shit at speed. Most of the big names in the climbing world have had to start training speed, and will never train it again after this summer (speed is being given its own medal for 2024).

    Adam Ondra is the best all round climber in the world in terms of outdoor feats, but that doesn't necessarily translate to the often parkour-like style of indoor competition routes. Favourite is probably home athlete Tomoa Narasaki, who has been very impressive over the last couple of years and is also less shit at speed. Janja Garnbret will probably win the women's gold, but the UK has a very strong competitor in Shauna Coxsey who could well come away with a medal.

    Anyway, yeah, looking forward to it. Here are the combined finals from the 2019 World Championships if anyone wants a taste.

    Is there a good reason why Alex Honnald and others don't compete at these things? I get he would have no interest in the speed run (or the structure of world sports organisations), but surely he and some others would be very competitive in the lead and bouldering?

  9. #9
    The Artist Formerly Known as Taz
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    The build on climbing chicks the sheer levels of perverts per sq metre at climbing walls gets close to yoga classes. 3 months left

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    Senior Member -james-'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hfswjyr View Post
    Is there a good reason why Alex Honnald and others don't compete at these things? I get he would have no interest in the speed run (or the structure of world sports organisations), but surely he and some others would be very competitive in the lead and bouldering?
    I don't think he's in the same league as the lead or boulder entrants. He is obviously a very strong climber but the skillsets required for outdoor and indoor climbing are pretty different. I presume his strengths lie in memorising moves in extreme detail to the point where is no longer concerned about falling hundreds of feet to his death.

    Competition routes tend to feature moves that simply don't exist outdoors and often reward coordination, explosiveness, agility to a far greater extent than what he trains for.

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